When we were planning this tour I expected that we would have a bit of time each day to hang out in neighborhoods and taste the local specialty cuisine–like Stumptown Coffee in Portland. Instead we often arrive just in time to set up and have to leave for the next town just after the show. We were in Portland for only 6 hours and all of that time was spent in a church basement. We spent the night at an RV park in Richfield, Washington–an ex-urb about 30 miles North of Portland. In the morning Tony and I walked to Lava Java– a café we had seen driving in the night before located in a strip mall across the street from the RV park. We entered the café with low expectations but were surprised to discover they serve Stumptown beans and the two guys behind the counter were as fastidious about coffee as any conscientious barista in San Francisco or Seattle. These guys even knew the names of the owners of Ritual and Blue Bottle–two of the best coffee roasters in San Francisco. One of them had just returned from Guatemala where he had visited a premium coffee plantation. He motioned toward a shrine of photo’s along the wall, pointing to the particular supplier he had met. To make small talk while they prepared my Macchiato I mentioned how much I enjoy cup of excellence coffees prepared with a Clover machine. I thought they would be impressed, but instead they both rolled their eyes and pretentiously informed me that The Clover Company had recently been sold to the Man–Starbucks. Clover coffee is so six-months ago!
“How did a specialty coffee café end up in a strip mall in Richfield, Washington across from an RV Park?” Apparently the owner bought the place not knowing anything about coffee but guessing that a café close to the freeway would be a good business/real estate investment. Slowly he began learning about bean quality and small batch roasting and eventually entered the United States Barista Competition. Unfortunately most of the café clientele in Richfield, Washington don’t care that these baristas will only prepare traditional espresso drinks in the proper ceramic vessel with only the finest single origin beans and precise blends. Imagine the torture of being a world-class barista who has to fulfill constant requests for a lattes with two shots of hazel nut syrup or explain that you don’t make frappuccinos with sprinkles.
Specialty coffee culture is a social phenomenon that is highly networked and relational, strives for beauty, excellence and meaning and signals the future despite its small piece of the market. Thanks to Lava Java for bringing a piece of the future and the richness of coffee to Ritchfield, Washington.