Good news for me: I'll be going to Istanbul on business for a week in early June, and will be blogging from there. Never been before, and am really looking forward to it. If there's one book, either fiction or non-fiction, I should read to prepare, what book would it be? I read Robert Hughes' "Barcelona" before I first visited that great city in 1994, and it made a big difference in my experience of the place. That was non-fiction. I tell anybody I know who's going to Paris for the first time to read Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast," which tells you nothing about the history of Paris, but opens your senses to the city in a marvelous way.
Now, what about Istanbul? Non-fiction? Novel? How about something by Orhan Pamuk? Advice, please.
Istanbul reading
Tuesday May 8, 2007
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Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.
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The Great Church in Captivity by Sir Steven Runcimen
Rod, You will love Istanbul--it is still the greatest city in the world, in my book. I will be back there from June 10th-June 14th. If that overlaps with your stay, and if I can be of any assistance, please let me know. This will be my 5th visit there.
Read Pamuk's book on Istanbul--a good overview of 20th-century Istanbul. I have a big coffee-table book "Byzantine Monuments of Istanbul" by Freely. I will glady loan it to you, if interested. I am in an out of St. Seraphim, so getting it to you would not be a problem. Other tips:
I know you will visit Haghia Sophia--that is a given. But also try to find the Haghia Eirene open (inside outer wall of Topkapi).
A visit to Chora Church is a must. You might try to arrange to see the Church of the Pammakaristos. If you visit the Patriarchate, do not tell the taxi driver that is where you are going--he won't take you there.
NEVER use a taxi in Sultanhamet. If you must use one, have your hotel call. Learn to use the tram system. It is so easy. If you have a free day, take a ferry out to Princes Islands. Have a drink at the bar of the Pera Palace Hotel. Have another drink at the rooftop terrace of the Four Seasons Hotel in Sultanhamet. Best small hotel in Sultanhamet: Apricot Hotel. You can email me at tcowan at jcowaninc.com
Ataturk: The Biography of the founder of Modern Turkey by Andrew Mango (Paperback - Aug 26, 2002) would seem to be a good read, giving you a sense of what makes this country unique. I also enjoyed: A Peace to End All Peace: The Fall of the Ottoman Empire and the Creation of the Modern Middle East by David Fromkin (Paperback - Sep 1, 2001) Have a safe trip
Runciman's The Fall of Constantinople is wonderful. I read it (finally) last year.
Visit the Topkapi museum. I could live there. Go to the bazaar, and leave at the back entrance and sit at one of the sidewalk cafes there, have a coffee and feel worldly and cosmopolitan.
I only went on tours, but to me Istanbul felt more western and modern than Athens. Anyone out there comment? Kim M
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