Crunchy Con

Destroying Chile's salmon industry

Thursday March 27, 2008

Categories: Food

What a sad, significant story: factory farming of salmon in Chile may be about to destroy that nation's salmon industry, its third-largest. From the Times:


A virus called infectious salmon anemia, or I.S.A., is killing millions of salmon destined for export to Japan, Europe and the United States. The spreading plague has sent shivers through Chile’s third-largest export industry, which has left local people embittered by laying off more than 1,000 workers.

It has also opened the companies to fresh charges from biologists and environmentalists who say that the breeding of salmon in crowded underwater pens is contaminating once-pristine waters and producing potentially unhealthy fish.

Some say the industry is raising its fish in ways that court disaster, and producers are coming under new pressure to change their methods to preserve southern Chile’s cobalt blue waters for tourists and other marine life.

“All these problems are related to an underlying lack of sanitary controls,” said Dr. Felipe C. Cabello, a professor in the Department of Microbiology and Immunology at New York Medical College in Valhalla that has studied Chile’s fishing industry. “Parasitic infections, viral infections, fungal infections are all disseminated when the fish are stressed and the centers are too close together.”

You read on in the story, and you find that factory farming methods of salmon are destroying local marine ecosystems, which can't handle salmon living together in such high concentrations, and creating all that waste. And of course, there's this:

On a recent visit to the port of Castro, about 105 miles south of Puerto Montt, a warehouse contained hundreds of bags, some weighing as much as 2,750 pounds, filled with salmon food and medication.

The bags — many of which were labeled “Marine Harvest” [the Norwegian company farming the salmon -- RD] and “medicated food” for the fish — contained antibiotics and pigment as well as hormones to make the fish grow faster, said Adolfo Flores, the port director.

More:


Residual antibiotics have been detected in Chilean salmon that have been exported to the United States, Canada and Europe, Dr. Cabello said.

He estimated that 70 to 300 times more antibiotics are used by salmon producers in Chile to produce a ton of salmon than in Norway. But no hard data exist to corroborate the estimates, he said, “because there is almost an underground market of antibiotics in Chile for salmon aquaculture.”

Researchers say that some antibiotics that are not allowed in American aquaculture, like flumequine and oxolinic acid, are legal in Chile and may increase antibiotic resistance for people. Last June the United States Food and Drug Administration blocked the sale of five types of Chinese seafood because of the use of fluoroquinolones and other additives.

But huge numbers of fish go uninspected. The F.D.A. inspected only 1.93 percent of all imported seafood in 2006, Food and Water Watch said, citing F.D.A. data.

Twenty-nine percent of Chile's salmon production is exported to the United States. I would be careful about eating it if I were you. The thing is, the same basic problems afflicting Chile's factory-farmed salmon are present wherever there's factory farming. We jack animals up on hormones to make them grow faster, and mainline antibiotics to them to prevent them from getting sick from the unnatural, perverse methods of animal husbandry we employ. It's a disgusting process.

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Comments
trotsky
March 27, 2008 3:38 PM

Your headline is a bit misleading. "Destroying Chile's salmon industry"? Without the farms, there would be no such industry at all. The fish are not native to Chile's rivers, and indeed are considered an invasive species there.

Though if they're thriving down there, more power to 'em. We can't seem to keep wild fish thriving here in California.

Rod Dreher
March 27, 2008 5:10 PM

Bugg: Similar situation with shrimp is going on.The taste of aquaculture shrimp from Vietnam and China is much worse than fresh, gulf-harvested shrimp. Don't buy frozen bag shrimp unless it says it's from the gulf, and buy fresh shrimp from a reputable fishmonger that can tell you affirmatively your dinner was not raised in a scummy pond. We have no idea what these pond-raised specimens are carrying and they taste like rubber.

Boy, is that ever true. I've cooked with farm-raised shrimp from Asia, and they're absolutely inferior in terms of taste. Same with Chinese crawfish. I'd just as soon not eat the things if I have to eat that crap. I'd rather pay more and eat less of the good stuff than settle for dreck.

reddopto
March 27, 2008 5:33 PM

The antibiotics may be playing a role in the infectious disease too. Overuse of antibiotics in humans leaves people at risk for super infections. Its another case of killing the goose that laid the golden egg.

stefanie
March 28, 2008 10:49 AM

Thank you, redopto, for making the point about antibiotics. That's far more of a serious consideration than taste, or even the health problems with grain-fed seafood.

Pepe
August 7, 2008 5:28 PM

As you quote the article from the NYT, I think you should also point out that they posted a retraction to some of the statements in the article. Read the bottom of the first page of the article...the alleged port director turned out to be a security guard!

Cheers,

Pepe

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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