Crunchy Con

"In Defense of Food"

Thursday March 6, 2008

Categories: Food
Can I tell you how great Michael Pollan's recent "In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto" is? I'm reading it now to get ready for next week's launch of The Reluctant Vegan, a blog I'm going to write on Dallasnews.com...
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Comments
Gina
March 6, 2008 4:13 PM

Another good book to read is Real Food by Nina Planck. Looking forward to the new blog.

Russell Arben Fox
March 6, 2008 4:18 PM

My wife and her online book group have been discussing this, Omnivore's Dilemma, and all of Pollan's works for the past few weeks. I'll definitely alert her to the blog, Rod. I'm interested in the title of the blog, though, since Pollan himself opposes vegatarianism, at least the forms you see in western nations, seeing it as another faddish opportunity that our corporate food kings take advantage of.

Anonymous
March 6, 2008 4:40 PM

"Pay more, eat less" really doesn't apply when you're cooking for and feeding children. If you have to pay 99 cents a pound for non-free-range, non-organic chicken and keep mom at home (rather than working), I say go for it. Paying 3-5X more for food can kill a food budget for a family pretty quickly.

Charles Cosimano
March 6, 2008 5:24 PM

The best defense of food is eating it. Ignore the experts, eat what you like, don't eat what you don't like. And remember, there are few sights more entertaining than the face on the vegetarian as you eat a rare steak.

sigaliris
March 6, 2008 5:47 PM

My brother likes to describe himself as a "meatatarian," which he defines as only eating things that are at the top of the food chain. He's joking, of course . . . at least I think he is. I know I've seen him eat beef, and I've never seen him eat, say, a jaguar. But I wouldn't put it past him. He also claims to enjoy eating the most beautiful animals he can find. That includes a lot of fish and game. He is a gentle soul . . . but I fear what he really enjoys is messing with people. ; )

Marian Neudel
March 6, 2008 5:55 PM

My mother always used to tell me, "If you can't spell it, don't eat it." Then I became a medical transcriber, and now I can spell ANYTHING. This is not helpful.

Rod Dreher
March 6, 2008 5:55 PM

Russell, the title of the blog comes from the fact that during Orthodox Lent, we who are observing the fast have to eat a vegan diet. I am an enthusiastic carnivore and dairy-vore; the title is meant to be mildly comic, as I log what it's like to live a vegan life, however temporarily.

mm
March 6, 2008 6:03 PM

"Never eat anything bigger than your head." - Miss Piggy

Erin Manning
March 6, 2008 6:14 PM

"+ Eat meals and eat them only at tables. (And no, a desk is not a table.)...+ Eat slowly, with other people whenever possible, and always with pleasure."

These are the two hardest ones from that list for me personally. I think it has to do with the fact that women are conditioned from an early age to consume only tiny bits of food when other people are watching, whether at the family dinner table or among friends; this is especially true if the woman doesn't meet our culture's current standards of beauty, which equals emaciated thinness. So many of us learn to live a double life, as far as food and eating are concerned: in public, we consume small amounts of tasteless foods with no enjoyment whatsoever in order to avoid criticism for our weight issues, and then in private we consume actual food in too-large quantities along with a sizable serving of guilt.

The other items seem more possible. I use far fewer convenience foods now than I did a decade or so ago, for instance, and I'd much rather cook real food for my family than rely on quick processed meals--though I haven't cut all of these out to the degree I'd like.

Steve
March 6, 2008 6:57 PM

I would add: 1) Grow some of your own food. Fresh herbs are easy to grow as well as tomatoes and peppers and of course zucchini. If you havent gardened before be sure to plant lots of zucchini so you will have enough (evil grin). Herbs grow easily in pots btw.

2) Have everyone in the family cook. All too often its just the wife cooking and who can blame anyone if they turn to convenience foods if they have all the burden for food prep. Amazing what your kids will eat if they helped cook it.

3) Call Mom or Grandmother and ask them to teach you how to make a fav dish. Good family time and something you can pass on.

4) Teach a yankee how to make real barbecue.

Steve

MI
March 6, 2008 7:11 PM

Paying 3-5X more for food can kill a food budget for a family pretty quickly.

"Civilizations have the morality and ethics that they can afford." -- Niven/Pournelle, "Lucifer's Hammer"

Mike D
March 6, 2008 7:20 PM

I read it right after I read Fast Food Nation (I was a bit behind on that one). It was a good book. Having read it, Dominion, Food Revolution, and Fast Food Nation, even among these different perspectives, there is a central core of common agreement about farming, food politics, and food consumption. Dominion and The Food Revolution caused me to drastically change my diet. In Defense of Food made me fine tune my eating habits, but overall made me more confidant in the choices I've made over the past two years. I just turned 30 today, and I am healthier and happier now than I was when I was 20. I've been vegetarian for two years, and I gave up dairy for Lent--so I too, am a reluctant vegan.

Larry Parker
March 6, 2008 8:45 PM

Congratulations on being three times more productive (I guess) than your fellow Bnet blogger, Therese Borchard, who celebrated her 1,000th blog entry this week.

Ya have to admit, some of them have been more heat than light, though.

Jenny
March 6, 2008 9:23 PM

I just finished _In Defense of Food_. It was absolutely life-changing. I am in debt to Mr. Pollan for his work!

Rod Dreher
March 6, 2008 10:00 PM

Mike: I just turned 30 today, and I am healthier and happier now than I was when I was 20.

Happy birthday, Mike! You'll love your thirties, I predict. You're still young, but you have more sense than you did in your twenties, so you can savor life more while not making so many silly mistakes. At least that's how it worked out for me.

Larry: Congratulations on being three times more productive (I guess) than your fellow Bnet blogger, Therese Borchard, who celebrated her 1,000th blog entry this week. Ya have to admit, some of them have been more heat than light, though.

Larry, Larry, you hot-blooded siren! Put on that chartreuse shift and the matching pumps, and come sit by me.

Sotto Voce
March 6, 2008 11:34 PM

Michael Pollan is Der Schizzle. "The Botany of Desire" is also quite a page-turner.

a friendly reader
March 6, 2008 11:37 PM

i recently read that book-
liked the bit about Great-Grandmother's food-
got bored with the "science" pretty quickly-

by the end, i was haunted by the memory of my Grandfather telling us how they had little or no food in Sicily when he was a child-
he always made sure we had plenty good food and enjoyed it with family and friends-

i think we just need to be grateful for the abundance of good food we have here .

dw
March 7, 2008 12:04 AM

Actually, Pollan's new book is profoundly bad. Here he is ripping on nutritionists for being too simplistic and what does he do? Tells us we shouldn't eat anything our great-grandparents wouldn't recognize as food.

If you put a brain sandwich and a bowl of tom yum in front of my great grandparents and asked them to identify which one was "food," which do you think they'd choose?

And it really does seem like that for as many nutritional scientists he throws under the bus he's just as willing to wave their papers around like Chamberlain getting vitamins in our time.

I think the new book is a complete mess. A massive letdown from Omnivore's Dilemma.

aaron
March 7, 2008 9:06 AM

If you havent gardened before be sure to plant lots of zucchini so you will have enough (evil grin). Herbs grow easily in pots btw.

Indeed, I recommend at least 2 plants per person in the household >.>

sigaliris
March 7, 2008 11:07 AM

Brains . . . yum . . . . My father grew up on a farm and thought organ meats were proper food. He didn't like liver because he'd had it for lunch every day because it was cheap. He did like cows' tongues--also cheap. You haven't lived till you've been a small child staring in horror at a big, greyish-pink boiled TONGUE complete with little taste buds on it, sitting on a plate waiting to be sliced up so you can eat it under pain of "a good sound thrashing" for disdaining hard-earned food. Ewww . . . . It actually doesn't taste that bad, but you have to slice it up and hide the pieces in a sandwich or something so it doesn't look so creepy. Anyway, he kept bugging my mother to cook kidneys, so she gave it a try, but none of us wanted to eat them ever again. They smell like . . . well, like what you'd expect to come out of a cow's kidney. And the skillet full of scrambled brains? Well, we children seldom got away with saying we could not eat something--but there was universal agreement on that day that the brains were never going to make it past the kitchen door. Avert eyes! Dump! End of story! If you are what you eat, no one wants to be a cow's brain. Hmm . . . that should mean that no one wants to be a pig's rump, either, but I guess that never stopped anyone from eating ham.

My best friend's mother, a German Jewish refugee, used to make meat loaf out of ground beef hearts, and serve it with Rice-a-Roni. I lived in dread of this meal. Mr. Sig's grandmother considered ham loaf from Meijer's Thrifty Acres, served with canned corn, to be food. So, Michael Pollan's maxim, like many maxims, has a few flaws in it. But you have to try to take the sense from it, and not get all picky. If it prevents one human being from eating a Butterscotch Krimpet, then Pollan has not lived in vain.

aaron
March 7, 2008 2:01 PM

True, cow tongue is not that bad, a little tougher than regular meat but lacks those "wonderful" flavors and aromas of other organs.

Just Some Guy
March 7, 2008 4:03 PM

I think some of you are missing the point about Pollan's dictum about not eating anything your grandmother wouldn't recognize as food. It's not about if your (or my) particular grandmother would recognize it, but would anyone's grandmother recognize it.

For example, my grandmother would have no idea what tempeh was, but it's still a venerable and traditional way of preparing soybeans. On the other hand, no one, not even an Indonesian grandmother, would recognize Textured Vegetable Protein, as it is purely a recent product of the industrialization of soybeans. That, in Pollan's view, makes it decidedly not food and something you should not eat.

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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