Crunchy Con

The silver lining in high food prices

Wednesday April 2, 2008

Categories: Food
The high cost of food these days has mostly to do with the skyrocketing cost of grain and of transportation. Here's the silver lining: because of this dynamic, locally-grown produce and grass-fed meat is becoming more affordable. Excerpt from a...
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Comments
Adam
April 2, 2008 9:35 AM

Related to this, Ezra Klein had a great piece on this.

http://www.prospect.org/csnc/blogs/ezraklein_archive?month=03&year=2008&base_name=meat_should_not_be_cheap

The human body doesn't need anywhere the amount of protein (especially animal protein) that Americans on average consume.

Grains, insofar as they are primarily used to feed livestock rather than people, are expensive because of market distorting agricultural and energy (ethanol) subsidies. Along with sugar, we effectively subsidize foods that are really detrimental to human health, driving up our health care costs. A lot of organic farmers do very well without any subsidies at all, and it's gratifying to see more and more consumers choosing this path.

Mark
April 2, 2008 9:44 AM

Does anyone care to compare our life expectancy with the life expectancy of a country that exclusively "eats local"?

I am sure there are some marginal health benefits to eating more naturally, slowly grown, local produce, and we love to do this all summer long. Still it's really hard to believe that our current system is not a net gain for health.

For instance, here in MN, "eating locally" means surviving on salt pork and corn meal for 6 months out of a year. Not the most healthy diet even if it is grown in your own backyard. Sorry, but I just had to chuckle when I read your encouragement to go to the farmer's market this weekend since we just got 6 inches of snow yesterday.

Adam
April 2, 2008 10:09 AM

"Does anyone care to compare our life expectancy with the life expectancy of a country that exclusively "eats local"?"

Mark, looking at it that way may definitely skew your data. If "eating" local means digging for roots and eating bark because your local warlord/president for life shuts down productive farms (as was the case in Zimbabwe) then no. The best counter example would probably be Japan, especially residents of Okinawa, who, IIRC, have the longest life expectancy on the planet. A diet in locally grown vegetables, rice, and locally caught fish, etc. is very good for you.

Matt K
April 2, 2008 10:14 AM

I think emerging market forces will do a lot for both our enviornmental health and our personal physiological health. Nothing incites behavior change like the bottom dollar.

And Mark, try pickling and canning the local vegetables you get this summer (heck, just get a deep freezer). They'll last deep into the winter before you have to import stuff from the southern hemisphere again.

Jason
April 2, 2008 10:43 AM

Mark,

Read the middle third of "In Defense of Food" for an answer to that question. The comparisons are made. Life expectancy is not a great measure since our gains in that statistic are primarily from defeating the diseases that kill children (thus raising the average). Pollan makes the point that a person who lives to be 60 nowadays has just about the same chance of living to 65 as his/her counterpart 100 years ago. The health effects are seen in the increase of heart disease, cancer, diabetes, and diseases related to tooth decay (major cause of disease in children--a point Pollan does not mention) wherever the "Western Diet" is present. Conversely, these diseases immediately decline when people go off of the "Western diet."

While one can understand the you would not want salt pork and corn meal exclusively for six months, there are plenty of ways to extend vegetables into the winter and you can always resort to the grocery store.

In the end, if you can only eat locally six months out of the year, that is still better than never.

Lisa
April 2, 2008 11:00 AM

Local grass-fed beef $8.40/lb. for hamburger. Family of six. Not happening.

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 11:01 AM

Well, there IS canning and such. But I do note Mark's concerns. I mean, I live in Minnesota too. And people who live in desert climates. Its not just a limited growing season. In some cases, its also a limited range of options that will grow where you live (without some VERY unenvironmental methods. See.. golf courses in places like Arizona.)

Though I have no idea of the economy of canning vegetables you didn't grow yourself. Being a person with a very limited food budget, I have a feeling that's above both my skill AND my wallet. And no, where I live, a garden is simply impossible beyond a few pots in the window.

pb
April 2, 2008 11:16 AM

"Local grass-fed beef $8.40/lb. for hamburger. Family of six. Not happening."

Perhaps it would be better to avoid beef, which is admittedly a luxury food item. But the financial concerns are understandable.

trotsky
April 2, 2008 11:19 AM

I eat local as much as possible because I'm a vegetable snob and because I live in California and know what an honest peach is supposed to taste like.

However, is there any scientific evidence that transport affects the nutritional value of foods? I see this assertion more and more.

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 11:22 AM

Umm.. other than the effects of time, and whatever preservation methods needed (if needed), I can't figure how there'd be a difference.

I always thought it was the transportation used.

Anonymous
April 2, 2008 11:37 AM

"Though I have no idea of the economy of canning vegetables you didn't grow yourself. Being a person with a very limited food budget, I have a feeling that's above both my skill AND my wallet. And no, where I live, a garden is simply impossible beyond a few pots in the window."

A small initial investment in some mason jars, water, stove, some salt. That is it, at least for canning vegetables (tomatos, green beens, etc.) It's actually very cheap, and we were able (late last fall) to can about 50 jars of tomatos in a single afternoon. I will confess, it is not that pleasant a task (sterilize the cans, boil and peel the tomatos) but worth it in the end.

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 11:39 AM

Well, talking about doing that and buying the raw tomatoes in the first place, that are organic, etc. As opposed to, say, buying them already in a can. *grin*

Remembering, you're talking to a person who literally makes less than 7 dollars an hour, and lives in a caretaker's room. Note, not apartment, room. I don't have a lot of storage space.

Connie
April 2, 2008 11:47 AM

Karen--the optimal way to store fruits and vegetables in the smallest amount of space is to dry them. And as pointed out above, eating local/eating seasonally doesn't have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. Preserve/dry/store/save SOME food for the off-season, and you (and the environment) come out ahead.

Connie
April 2, 2008 11:51 AM

Foods that are grown for transport are selected for their ability to withstand moving about and their uniformity, not their taste. Also, the longer food is off the plant, the more it decays; that's why frozen fruits and vegetables can be better for you than those that are "fresh" but old.

Charles Cosimano
April 2, 2008 12:03 PM

In our climate that is not an option unless one wants a diet that is so boring that it is not worth the trouble of eating.

Rod Dreher
April 2, 2008 12:07 PM

Freezing food is a more healthful (and far less labor-intensive) way of preserving fresh vegetables than canning them. Michael Pollan says deep freezers are not expensive to purchase or to operate. We'd like to get one, but we don't have space for it in our house (not even a small one).

The price of grass-fed beef really is out of reach for most people. We couldn't afford it regularly. But I've also seen that we have an unreasonable expectation for the amount of animal protein we should ingest. Anyway, the point is that the market is making grass-fed and otherwise locally raised meat more affordable. As more people choose to farm like this, it will only help matters, price-wise.

octopus
April 2, 2008 12:13 PM

And no, where I live, a garden is simply impossible beyond a few pots in the window.

Does your city have community gardens? If they do you could get a plot or put a note up saying you'll volunteer with a plot in exchange for veggies.

Another fun thing I have seen is off a bike trail here in Seattle ( an old rail right of way) someone has a vegetable garden growing off the shoulder. Its been there for over a year, and someone leaves their buckets and tools off to the side. "Guerrilla gardening ;-) "

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 12:36 PM

Well, for the few months that it'd work (We still have snow on the ground, and can likely have more in September).

Drying.. if I can get something that does that. AT least it likely doesn't take much space.

Sherry
April 2, 2008 12:56 PM

I'd love to get back to the old family homestead and have a garden, but like the authors say, you'll be able to sell more if you live close to a city (the land will be expensive, though). In rural West Virginia, where nearly everyone has a garden, I don't see how one can make a living. I guess with organic farms, it's about location, location, location!

octopus
April 2, 2008 1:16 PM

And speaking of not eating locally

http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/business/357313_pickles02.html

Northwest brands reject pickles from Northwest growers

By CRAIG HARRIS
P-I REPORTER

SKAGIT VALLEY -- On this rich rural land where tractors share the roads with cars, cucumber growers for decades have harvested their crops, which made their way onto pantry shelves in jars of Nalley, Farman's and Steinfeld's pickles that touted their Northwest roots.

That tradition is ending.

Starting this season, pickles in those jars will come from other parts of the country -- and even India.

The article is accompanied with a photo of one of the pickle jars with "Great Taste of the Northwest" on the front of the jar and back has "Product of India". Even with the high transportation costs, it still make more economic sense to source cucumbers from India vs. some of the richest agricultural land in the Northwest... crazy

Chris
April 2, 2008 1:16 PM

Rod,

Your blog, more than any other, tends to make me hungry. Your post about Cassoulet awhile back made me crave the stuff so badly I went out and bought a 7qt Le Creuset French oven. Then I made lots and lots of Cassoulet, so much that I was rather sick of it by the time I finally ate it all :)

Mmm, local grass-fed beef. I'll have to go to WF after work tonight.

octopus
April 2, 2008 1:20 PM

This site seems to list community gardens throughout the country:

http://acga.localharvest.org/

watsy
April 2, 2008 2:04 PM

I try to support my local farmers by buying produce from them. It's not organic, but it's fresh and tastes good. I buy from the supermarket what he doesn't sell in the winter.

Too bad about the pickle farmers. It started in textiles and continues. We really need to support tax cuts and laws that encourage businesses to keep labor in the USA.

Erin Manning
April 2, 2008 2:07 PM

Octopus, thanks for sharing that article. You're right: it's crazy.

One of the maddening things about trying to buy local produce is that so much foreign produce is being dumped into our stores, that even displays that say "Texas Cabbage" might be labeled, on closer inspection, "Product of Mexico" (and no, in the DFW area Mexican produce isn't really "local").

This is even more true if you are buying frozen produce. I was looking at a bag of frozen green beans in a store the other day, and it was marked (in tiny letters on the back) "Product of China."

We have absolutely no need to depend on foreign countries for the vast majority of the foods we buy. It's one thing to buy certain fruits (like bananas) that aren't really grown here; it's quite another to have other countries shipping corn, tomatoes, and green beans to us when we can grow these ourselves.

Gerry
April 2, 2008 2:10 PM

Uh, if beef is a luxury item, then ...

Jenny
April 2, 2008 2:11 PM

I live in Fort Lauderdale and the Whole Foods near my home carries locally grown produce from Glaser Organic Farm in the Miami area:

http://www.glaserorganicfarms.com/

They also carry locally caught seafood. I'm not always a big fan of Whole Foods, but I'm happy to purchase produce from Glaser through Whole Foods (I can't always make the 35 mile trip to Glaser's farmer's market in Miami).

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 2:30 PM

Umm... to most of the residents where I live (in a homeless shelter), beef is definitely a luxury. Meat usually means chicken, some kind of processed product like hotdogs, or tuna, almost used like a condiment in some carb base like mac and cheese.

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 2:33 PM

I mean, have you priced hamburger lately? (And I don't mean organic).

Rod Dreher
April 2, 2008 3:19 PM

Karen, not to take the discussion off topic ... but how do you get access to a computer in a homeless shelter? Serious question.

On my drive to work every morning, I pass the Stewpot, a ministry of a downtown Presbyterian church, where they feed the homeless in Dallas. I was startled to see a Rolls-Royce parked outside! Dallas is an interesting place; I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to find that some local skrillionaire Christian was inside cutting up potatoes.

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 3:47 PM

Oh, I'm not a resident. I'm an on-site caretaker. I'm talking about our tenants, though caretakers don't exactly rake in the big bucks either.

stefanie
April 2, 2008 4:24 PM

Karen Brown, yes, I've priced hamburger. Around here it's between $1.99 and $2.69 a pound. Free-range, "ethical" beef is just too expensive for us.

I don't believe the "low protein" mantra across the board. Michael Pollan and others sing that tune, too. For one thing, "one size fits all" does NOT work with diet and nutrition.

Some people have fairly high protein requirements (if I had to guess, I'd say it was because - if Caucasian - they were descended from largely-non-agricultural Northern Europeans.) Some of our ancestors were pastoral until about 1500 years ago (or less.) Meat and dairy are their "bread and butter." IMO there are substantial genetic differences that make up for some tolerating a largely plant protein, even vegan diet, and others to be unhappy (or gaining weight) eating that way.

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 4:28 PM

Wow, its cheaper there. Here, the low end is about 2.50. And that's the cheap version that's 20 percent fat. Still cheaper than free range, or organic, but also much more expensive than chicken, and some of the bonier cuts of pork, or, well, pieces parts like hocks, that can be added to greens or beans.

Organic beef? Not even in the ballpark.

stefanie
April 2, 2008 5:03 PM

Mark, I had to chuckle when I read your comment about how "eating locally" in MN means salt pork six months out of the year.

I have an amateur interest in how our 19th c. forebearers lived, especially in the Midwest and Upper Midwest, Plains, etc. My husband's German-speaking farm ancestors put in huge crocks of sauerkraut, and ate that with boiled pork and potatoes for many, many weeks in the winter.

Michael Pollan, I notice, lives in Berkeley, CA.

You aren't going to have it both ways - fresh produce year round, especially of the crispy green variety - *and* "local eating" where there's only one relatively short growing season. 19th c. Midwestern people ate a lot of pie, jams, canned meats, root vegetables, breads, salted meats etc. because that's all that would winter over.

Remarks on canning: personally, I don't think canning is cost-effective unless you do it for many years (the jars are a pretty expensive startup investment, and natural gas or electricity aren't getting any cheaper), and canning destroys a lot of nutrients. Canning was a "hit" after Napoleon's logistics engineers invented it because there really was no better alternative.

The upside to canning is that freezers fail. They will; you can take that to the bank. I count power failures as failing, too. You're safe for about 8 hours, but if you have days without power (as we have had here), you will lose *everything,* especially that half a beef you drove out to the country to buy. It will happen - just budget it in.

Karen, I have found that the cheapest cuts of beef are boneless chuck roasts (about the same or slightly cheaper than hamburger.) I would have said blade roasts IF you could still get them. Around here they're about $2.49 lb (about $9-$10 a lb. grass-fed organic.)

Pork and chicken are great meats. Bones in meat are good - if you make a slow-cooking stew, make sure to leave bones in. People are always popping calcium supplements, but I am sold on the Weston Price foundation idea that boiled-bone broth (like a soup stock) is a great way to get calcium, and more absorbable than the pills. The flavor of the bones is a real plus.

I don't know what kind of setup you have in your shelter, but it seems to me that cheap cuts of meat, with bones, made into thick stews with potatoes and root vegetables would be far more nutritious than hot dogs or other "cheap" processed meats.

octopus
April 2, 2008 5:41 PM

http://domestigeek.blogspot.com/2008/01/growing-garden-for-strangers.html

The link to the guerrilla garden I mentioned

Karen Brown
April 2, 2008 5:47 PM

Hmm.. depends. I mean, you can buy three boxes of mac and cheese for a buck, on sale. Hard to beat that. And if you use the cheap meat strictly supplemental, that's quick, cheap, and almost no nutritional value.

Hence, a low income population that can be fat, but also suffering from malnutrition.

The rest can require heavy time investment, cooking skill, and cooking gear. (They cook for themselves here.)

naturalmom
April 2, 2008 7:15 PM

You know, eating locally and sustainably does not have to be an all or nothing thing. Just because you can't can or freeze all of your own winter vegetables doesn't mean you should throw your hands up and continue to buy Mexican tomatoes in August. Do what you can and the planet, the farmer, your health and (not least!) your taste-buds will thank you for it. As for meat, I've found it much more economical -- though still not cheap -- to purchase meat directly from the farmer. I pay $5.00 a pound for grass-fed ground beef of excellent quality. The same product in the store would cost close to the $8.40 Lisa mentioned. My farmer delivers once a month to a central location where I go and pick it up at a specific time. Not the most convenient, and it *is* a stretch for our budget, but it's important to me, so I do it. We just don't eat that much meat as a result.

That's really what it gets down to -- you do what you value as far as it's possible for you. I understand that some people do have issues with space, cooking facilities, etc., that make healthy/sustainable eating difficult or impossible. But many people who eat the standard American diet do not. Again, it's not all or nothing. Start small and go from there. It's amazing how "crunchy" one can get after 5 years or so of little changes. :o)

naturalmom
April 2, 2008 7:18 PM

Oh, I should add that I only learned about the local meat delivery from word-of-mouth, so sometimes there are resources available that we might not be aware of. Ask around!

Tracy
April 3, 2008 8:55 AM

Thanks to Mark for injecting a bit of sanity into the discussion. Local and organic foods are now popular ideologies for upper-middle-class folks trying to be better than the next person, and the idealistic fog generated blocks out most rays of common sense.

What many of these enthusiasts are not told about organic production is that because herbicides are not used more trips through the field with cultivation equipment is required to clear weeds, which uses far more energy than a truck moving on a highway. Thus the _gain_ in organic production is swamped by higher energy use. Or expensive American hand labor is used, driving the prices out of reach of lower and lower-middle class groups.

European local production idealists mounted a campaign against vegetables grown in Africa because they are flown in on GHG-producing jets. Someone decided to compare the energy used from seed to table and found that European mechanized agriculture contributed far more GHG's to the environment than did Kenyan labor-based farmers, to the extent that Kenyan vegetables produced fewer GHG's than European local vegetables , even after air shipping. Not to mention that African and South American vegetables provide much-needed jobs in the developing world.

Much of this debate is really little more than an excuse for protecting American jobs at the expense of people in Africa or South American that live in much more fragile economies, but are not considered neighbors whose interests are worth protecting.

Matt K
April 3, 2008 10:39 AM

A few things to keep in mind:

1.) As it relates to cash cost and greenhouse gas cost: local is more important than organic. I can understand the aversion to the price of organic. If you can't afford it don't buy it. But it doesn't cost any extra money to read the labels on two cans of vegetables to find out which one come from the U.S. and which one was shipped from the southern hemisphere.

2.) I don't understand why people think they have to have beef at every meal. Yes, local grass fed beef costs more. Eat it one night a week instead of three and you're probably now saving money. Protein comes from lots of sources. Beans are excellent sources of protein minus the cholestorol and plus the fiber. Eggs are good protein, and cage free eggs run only a buck more than factory farmed ones.

3.) Poor people can eat ethically. My wife and I are both students and we don't make much. By eating just a little less meat each week, we can have delicious grass-fed beef on Sunday nights and Wild Alaskan Salmon on Friday nights. And as far as vegetables go, the stuff we get from the farmers market is no more expensive than the supermarket--and tastier.

Karen Brown
April 3, 2008 12:18 PM

I wish I could find a farmer's market that was running when I don't work. That's a very specific problem, since I work mostly weekends, and most of ours run only on weekends. (Added to transportation, since I don't own a car.)

I'd go at least when they were in service.

Being Minnesota, that's only a few months out of the year. *chuckle* But.. I'd appreciate it while it was working.

aaron
April 7, 2008 10:49 AM

Local and organic foods are now popular ideologies for upper-middle-class folks trying to be better than the next person, and the idealistic fog generated blocks out most rays of common sense.

Yeah that it. Let's not be worried over the recent beef recall, the even more recent recall of cattle heads because the tonsils were left in or the fact the gov't won't even expand or allow private testing for BSE. Yep, I just want to feel better than the poor sops who eat those $1 McD's double cheeseburgers, or the poor schoolkids who consumed the recalled beef, if by feeling better you mean I'm protecting myself from possible BSE infection. Hey I also don't mind eating vegetables laden with pesticides and herbicides because they soak into the skin and simple washing won't work, or all the E Coli I can get from eating spinach or onions or whatever lettuce. I should just plow over my garden plots right now, chop down my fruit trees and pave over the whole damn thing.

Furthermore, and I know I'm just being faddish and want to feel better about myself, I should prefer drinking polluted municipal water supplies because excess nutrient runoff from industrial farming/golf courses/lawn treatment will cause higher levels of THM's in the water, a cancer causing disinfection byproduct when chlorine encounters organic carbon in the water. Let's not even talk about all the prescription medicine, OTC's and personal care products in said water supplies, at least I feel better than the next person because I'm, picky about my shampoos/soaps/detergents.

And God forbid Mr. Upper-middleclass me piss all over the peons because I reduce my electrical usage through conservation, efficient appliances, and using a variety of active and passive solar technologies. I mean, all the mercury emissions from coal plants, radioactive waste from nuclear plants, and ecological damage from hydroelectric plants are good for the peasants while unconscionable dandy me gets my jollies in making myself feel better than the next.

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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