Crunchy Con

Sic transit gloria cassoulet

Tuesday May 27, 2008

Categories: Food

Terrible news on the culinary front, about one of my favorite restaurants:

I've written you previously on only one topic--cassoulet in Paris. We've shared our admiration of the wonderful cassoulet at La Table du Perigord. Bad news: I have just returned from a week in Paris, during which I was quite downhearted to find that La Table du Perigord had closed. (The building that had housed it is for sale.) I find little consolation in the fact that the world's best cassoulet is now my own. Ah, quelle peine!

That really makes me sad. I'd taken pleasure in recommending that little restaurant to personal friends and readers of this blog; people would write me and tell me they'd gone there and had a wonderful time being taken care of by the young husband and wife who run the cafe, and it had been a highlight of their trip to Paris. And now it's gone.

The New York Times last week did a wonderful oral history of the restaurant Florent in downtown Manhattan, which is closing after 25 or so years because of a rent dispute. I never ate at Florent, but I loved the way you got from the Times story a real sense of how a restaurant can become a home away from home for people, and a dynamic part of a neighborhood. I'd love to hear from you readers about cafes in your lives, or in the lives of your communities, that have become more than just a good place to eat.

Wherever that is for you, it might be good to pay your local a visit soon. They could probably use the business. You don't miss your cassoulet till the cassoulet pan runs dry.

Advertisement
Comments
Rod Dreher
May 27, 2008 7:40 PM

There's no satisfying everybody. I write about big issues, small ones, and everything in between. If you hang out here long enough, you'll find something you can relate to. The actual point of this blog is to encourage discussion about cafes, pubs, and places like that that come to mean a lot to people for reasons beyond the food you eat there. That's actually a significant issue. Not the end of the world, mind you, but I find that people like to talk about it. I know I do.

Steve
May 27, 2008 8:47 PM

Clare- We have been members of Longwood Gardens for years. I will try that pub next time we head that way.

We are fond of a family owned and run Thai place close to us. We went when it first opened and it was slow. We had several nice long chats with the son who is the frontman. He shared his family's views on food and cooking. He also revealed his source for getting Kaffir lime leaves and we now have a small Kaffir lime tree/shrub growing in our breakfast room. We recommend this place to all of our friends and it is doing well now. Our al time favorite was a place called the Catfish Cafe in Philadelphia. My wife and I went there when we were dating. They had fantastic blackened catfish and the waitstaff were funny as all get out. I remember one waitress asking us if we wanted more wine or to just borrow the upstairs room. Young love.

Steve

masha
May 28, 2008 5:03 AM

My mother never liked restaurants and caffes and tried to instill squeamishness about it in us. We had a caucasian restaurant Kazbek not far from home (now it is pub 16 Tons), devil knows how it's smells lurred me in childhood, but to all whining moter always replied NO - it's a place for grown-ups.
When we accidentally visited a public dining-room, even ordinary egges with mayonaise tasted for us like food of gods, but when i growed up i lost interest to public catering almost completely.

My previous employers used to celebrate corporative holidays in posh restaurants, it was interesting as a novelty, now i find nothing special in it and consider such pastime not worthy of paying from ones own pocket.I have never been even to McDonalds and sushi (person who hasn't eaten sushi is so rare in Moscow that soon i'll be caught and shown for money i guess, must visit it at last). From my observations atmosphere in public food establishments, even in the most respectable of them, has someting in common with that of a railway station. There are people who can't eat at home, either have no home, or travelling tourists, men for whom inviting woman to a restaurant is manifest of the highest romanticism or usual ritual before dragging to bed. Smells like a railway station, indeed, and rather boring. The most bored people on earth i guess are waiters who observe that drunken public, they would rather spit in the plate, but have to put on a polite smile. No, i will not believe to that smiles :)

When we are travelling sometimes we buy food in local shops, ordinary fruits, milk, pasty. (Grocery near Sennaya in St.Petersburg sells unsurpassed pastry!) Once we entered real 'raspivochnaya'not far from Morskoj cathedral, prices for bread and cheese were so low that we hardly believed our eyes, it turned out to be the haunt of local clochards and alcoholics, they were very galant and sympathetic closhards, freed some space for us and very soon left. There remained only a young student eating sausage with a huge mug of beer and then entered an intelligent looking woman, neatly dressed who ordered a huge glass of wodka with a tiny pirozhok (that was early in the morning!). Public catering is interesting for a tourist, that's true.

Clare Krishan
May 28, 2008 11:17 AM

Steve - haven't been inside since the do-over, I hope its not lost its cachet (its a former Pepperidge Farm cookie factory, a little hard to find, take Boot Road off Rt 100, its the last righthand turn after the new Post Office before the Wawa)

And my UK links are hometown haunts (of course) in Shrewsbury, Shropshire home of fictional Brother Caedfael of PBS Mystery fame.

Kate O.
May 28, 2008 8:41 PM

Here in Miami there is a little bakery with the oddly hip name "Chocolate Fashion." My husband and I have been going since before we had kids and we've grown to love the place and the staff. It was our second son's first outing at 4 days old. Everything from the baguettes to the potatoes lyonnaise to the lamb stew is amazing. And so are the chocolate truffles.

Read All Comments

Post a Comment

By submitting these comments, I agree to the beliefnet.com terms of service, rules of conduct and privacy policy (the "agreements"). I understand and agree that any content I post is licensed to beliefnet.com and may be used by beliefnet.com in accordance with the agreements.



Please type the text you see in the box below to verify your post and help us prevent spam. You have a limited time to type - you may wish to compose your comment in a separate document and paste it here upon completion.

Type the characters you see in the picture above.

Advertisement

Search This Blog

About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

feed icon Subscribe

RSS Feed

Receive updates from Crunchy Con

Advertisement

Advertisement


About Beliefnet

Our mission is to help people like you find, and walk, a spiritual path that will bring comfort, hope, clarity, strength, and happiness. More about Beliefnet.

Legal

Copyright © Beliefnet, Inc. and/or its licensors. All rights reserved. Use of this site is subject to Terms of Service and to our Privacy Policy. Constructed by Beliefnet.

Advertisement

Report as Inappropriate

You are reporting this content because it violates the Terms of Service.

All reported content is logged for investigation.