Crunchy Con

Sushi and status-seeking

Friday August 22, 2008

Categories: Culture, Food

Here's a great story about how a couple of high school girls in Manhattan did DNA testing on sushi samples purchased in stores and restaurants, and found that consumers were often paying top-dollar for cheap imitations. Excerpt:

They found that one-fourth of the fish samples with identifiable DNA were mislabeled. A piece of sushi sold as the luxury treat white tuna turned out to be Mozambique tilapia, a much cheaper fish that is often raised by farming. Roe supposedly from flying fish was actually from smelt. Seven of nine samples that were called red snapper were mislabeled, and they turned out to be anything from Atlantic cod to Acadian redfish, an endangered species.

Good for those girls. But it does raise an interesting question: if you can't taste the difference between white tuna and tilapia, why pay more for white tuna? I like sushi, but don't eat it often enough to discern the difference in a case like this. I know I like the taste of all kinds of tuna, and given how expensive sushi is, typically confine my order to the tuna family when I go to sushi restaurants. Still, they could serve me tilapia and I'd probably not be able to tell the difference.

Is this case akin to those experiments in which pranksters rent an expensive venue and display canvases painted by children as the work of Modernist painters, thus gaming gullible gallery-goers into rating child's play as serious art? I mean to say, to what extent is sushi-eating a matter of gustatory discernment, vs. status-seeking?

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Comments
Secular Republican
August 22, 2008 2:41 PM

"A non-status-seeking eater would discern only one thing about sushi: it's uncooked and thus unsafe."

And that would be ignorant of that eater.

"Anyone who hangs out at sushi bars deserves to get ripped off!"

And hanging out at a honky tonk bar is any better?

Chris
August 22, 2008 4:23 PM

OK, there definitely are differences in the flavors imparted by French vs. American (or vs. Hungarian) oak. American oak screams of vanilla flavors, for instance, in a way that French oak does not. This isn't splitting hairs.

But what kind of wood was used to toast the staves? OK, now that sounds a little far out to me :)

I mean, of COURSE the French oak barrels were toasted over French wood. They're made in FRANCE, that's what they've got handy! Sheesh.

anishnaube
August 22, 2008 6:36 PM

Did anyone test the sushi at Southlake Stadium?


Seriously, I remember a news article covering this about a year ago.

Leo
August 22, 2008 9:34 PM

Chris. I'm giving them the oak the casks were made of. I think an expert could tell, though most buyers probably couldn't.

But what the fire was made of to bend the wood? Come on, guys. Nice try.

MH
August 23, 2008 4:17 PM

The real scandal in this story is that the imitation crab in the Calfornia roll turned out to be real crab.

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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