Crunchy Con

Marcella Hazan hates chefs

Saturday November 29, 2008

Categories: Food
Well, not quite, but she hates what the idea of chef-ness has done to our culture. In today's NYT, the grande dame of Italian cooking says that the worship of the chef in contemporary society hurts us by implicitly devaluing...
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Comments
Francesca
November 29, 2008 11:40 AM

I cooked an extremely successful dinner party for 8 people out of Marcella Hazan in September. The piece de resistance was the Osso Bucco. One of the best features in her book of Italian cookery is the line drawings. They show you how to do it without being terrifying, like photos in cook books often are.

Charles Cosimano
November 29, 2008 11:57 AM

Of course this implies two things. First, that there is the time to do it. Second, that there is the skill not to destroy it. Anyone who ever suffered through my grandmother's cooking would worship the ground a fry cook at McDonalds walks on.

James Yamakawa
November 29, 2008 12:52 PM

I am a stay-at-home dad who reads your Blog here on Beliefnet on a daily basis, I find your insights refreshing and timely. As I attempt to make my family's home a "Crunchy" one, I often look to your words for re-assurance. I am lucky enough to be not only at home with my daughter, but also to be the member of the family who has a knack for cooking. And yes, it often does take time that could be spent doing something else, but it means a healthier family and better food in the long run. Though, with these economic times, its often beans, rice and vegetables with a little bit of meat here and there (which does, however, work out quite well, since my favorite cuisine to cook is East and Southeast Asian, and my wife particularly likes Mexican and Southwest dishes.) We do eat out once a month, but only because we budget it into our expenses.

Keep posting Mr. Rod, you are a gem!

Simpson Snail
November 29, 2008 1:38 PM

I'm the cook in my house, and the menu planner, shopper and everything else to do with making there be food in the house and on the table at the appropriate times. I try to do it well, and I think it's worth the effort to do it carefully. It is a challenge to come up with new ideas for busy weeknights, as I tend to return to old favorites again and again. It stinks to go to the trouble of trying a new recipe when it doesn't go over. Advice to busy people -- make your crock pot your best friend. It's wonderful to walk in the door and smell a wonderful dinner that the crock pot has been slaving over all day.

Rich
November 29, 2008 2:15 PM

That's a pretty interesting thought by Marcella Hazen. One of the things I have noticed about so many cooking shows is that they push short times in cooking. The competition shows like Top Chef and Iron Chef are forcing meals to be made in a very short time, and many of the big cooking shows are focused around quick meals. But all of the best dishes that my mom and my grandmothers made always cooked for hours. My mom's red beans would literally simmer all day long. When we want to eat them I have to get them started by 10 a.m. for dinner that night. My wife can turn a cheap frozen chicken into a roasted wonder, but it takes about 3 hours to cook. Great homemade meals and instant gratification are incompatible concepts.

Jen
November 29, 2008 2:16 PM

It's funny how perceptions change. When I was in high school, and was already selling homemade cakes on the side for $40, and coming in to cater dinner parties for the parents of friends, I toyed with the idea of going to cooking school and becoming a chef. A family friend chided me for even contemplating this, and asked me, 'You're a smart girl - why in the world would you ever want to work with your hands?'

In the end, I went to college instead, but supported myself by working in catering and in restaurants. Over the course of my college career, I realized that being a chef wouldn't have been my cup of tea, not because I thought the work was demeaning, but because I saw how much pressure they were under and how little so many of them enjoyed actual cooking outside of their job, as a result.

Flash forward 25 years, and we have celebrity chefs. And now some of the same people who tried to dissuade me from attending the CIA are asking me why I didn't become a chef. Sheesh.

That said, I think that not only celebrity chefs but also the "Martha Stewart" effect have not necessarily done home cooks (or the idea of home cooking) many favors. I know too many people who are perfectly adequate cooks but who won't throw a dinner party because they feel they won't 'measure up' to the expectations created by Food Network.

I think that's a shame.

Francesca
November 29, 2008 2:44 PM

I've never watched a cookery program for much the same reason I never read girls' magazines when I was that age. I don't want to be set impossible standards.

the stupid Chris
November 29, 2008 2:54 PM

The promise of all our time-saving appliances and fast-foods was that we would have more time for things that are important, but we've now gone so far as to save the important time right out of our lives, at no small cost.

Celebrity chefs are part of that. They're about efficiency and planning, not about spending long hours cooking. Far from it, if a celebrity chef proposed a dish that would take a full day to cook that dish would never be made.

But that's part of what makes Thanksgiving is such a lovely time. We gather with family and friends, take a day or more to create the feast, and for the remainder of the weekend we have endless rounds of leftovers and lazy days spend walking, reading, talking, remembering, and napping.

There's enough time for the craziness of Christmas shopping in the coming weeks, more than enough, actually.

Another Ann
November 29, 2008 3:06 PM

I have recently made friends with my crockpot again mainly due to another blog I check every day, not for brain-stimulation, like this one, but for food ideas. It's "A Year of Crockpotting" at http://crockpot365.blogspot.com/

Stephanie set herself a challenge to use her crockpot everyday for a year and post the recipes online. She has done a fabulous job and I am sorry to see the year drawing to an end, and hope the blog will stay up so I can check back, as she has a great index.

For busy people who are gone all day, a crockpot is a lifesaver, and a money-saver. It only costs about 2 cents an hour to run and you can use food straight from the freezer, cheaper cuts, real whole food.

allbetsareoff
November 29, 2008 3:08 PM

The economic downturn will reduce dining out, but then what? Very few people know how to follow a recipe, let alone actually cook. (Recipes and TV cooking demonstrations are to cooking as porn videos are to sex.)

We're several generations into mass ignorance of how to tenderize or marinate meat, how to use herbs and spices (other than red-pepper dumps a la Emeril) or flavoring agents such as lemon juice and vinegar, how to prepare vegetables other than by boiling them, not to mention more rarified skills such as real baking (with that scary yeast stuff), fileting fish or making stock and then making gravy with it.

Most kitchens I visit don't even have good knives and proper cooking utensils.

the stupid Chris
November 29, 2008 3:14 PM

One other thing, apropos cooking with love.

The novel Like Water for Chocolate is also a cookbook. It's not step-by-step, but it does tell you what to watch out for as you make the dishes. I highly recommend the quail in rose petal sauce, though we usually substitute with cornish game hens.

Grumpy Old Man
November 29, 2008 3:26 PM
http://deadletter@cox.net

You can make delicious knead free bread with about five minutes' actual work. You just have to plan ahead.

me
November 29, 2008 4:45 PM

I have cut way back on my cooking in the last year. I hate figuring out what to eat everyday. My husband may or may not get back in time to share the meal with us. My kids may or may not appreciate it. I probably didn't enjoy making. Plus, my little girls who are 2 and 3 want to "help" with every little part of making the meal - including handling boiling water, cutting things with knives and cracking eggs. And they wound up crying several times in the process which did nothing to make me enjoy the cooking more.

I'm still cooking several times a week, but it's certainly not everyday. And it's the easiest crap I can get away with. And unless I have time to pre-measure and prep everything before starting, the little girls are in front of the TV when I must cook. I always idealized cooking for my family, but after 10 years, I've had it. I can find other ways to show my family love.

iw
November 29, 2008 5:28 PM

I have taken up cooking in later life. Thanks to Emeril, I have learned to do neat things. I am so into it I put a commercial kitchen in our new house. My wife still likes to go out, but I can do better things here at home. Like Emeril says "It ain't rocket science". Instead of going to the garage to show off, I go to the kitchen first and show off my Dacor 48" stove.

amazona
November 29, 2008 5:47 PM

Why is it that in Dallas so many people have huge gourmet kitchens that they never use? I on the other hand have a small modest kitchen that is about to fall apart from use. Life in not fair. I do believe that lack sharing the home table with people outside your family is the number one reason for lack of social ties. Want to contribute to eliminating loneliness? Make some soup and share it. So simple yet so difficult.

John
November 29, 2008 7:16 PM

To "me" at 4:45 pm -- don't get discouraged! You are mother to kids 2 and 3 -- difficult years. No wonder it's difficult. My wife was no gourmet cook during those years. In 5 years they will be helpers and you'll enjoy cooking again.

Kevin Divine
November 29, 2008 7:25 PM

Amazona at 5:47:
Want to contribute to eliminating loneliness? Make some soup and share it. So simple yet so difficult.

Chicken & Wild Rice Soup

In a stock pot:

--8 Tb. butter, get it just sizzling [or use 1/3 pound minced bacon or pancetta], then...
--Saute 1 finely diced onion, and add 3 pressed or minced cloves of garlic as onions get soft [prevents burning the garlic].
--Add two cubed chicken breasts [half inch cubes] and saute until browned.
-- toss in a peeled & diced potato, 2 ribs of finely chopped celery, 2 tsp. each dried marjoram, oregano, and chives, salt and white pepper to taste, and 1/3 to 1/2 cup wild rice.
-- cover with 2 quarts of chicken stock [or make bullion], bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until wild rice is done to taste [about 30 to 40 minutes].
--about 10 minutes before the end, add 3/4 to 1 cup of shredded carrot.
--When wild rice is done, mix 1 cup cold milk [I use 2% organic] with 1/4 cup corn starch and whisk to bloom. Add this to the pot, along with another 2 cups cold milk.
--Return pot to a simmer, stirring often. Turn off heat and serve.

We do this with biscuits from scratch or a toasted baguette.

This is a variation on my mom's basic rice soup [a sauteed half an onion in butter, salt, one carrot shredded, a rib of celery diced, a potato diced, and a quart and a half of water. Boil, then simmer until rice is done]. Once you have that down, you can pretty much come up with variations on the theme. I highly recommend doing this with bacon if you have it.

Kevin Divine
November 29, 2008 7:29 PM

Actually, now that I think about it, I now use probably closer to a half cup of corn starch. Play with it and see how thick you like it.

Kevin Divine
November 29, 2008 7:49 PM

Most kitchens I visit don't even have good knives and proper cooking utensils.

All that is really needed knifewise is one good knife [mine's a commercial santoku], a proper stone and steel for sharpening and honing, a paring knife and a few steak knives. Three wooden spoons, a slotted spoon, a carving fork, a peeler, a can opener, a turner, a garlic press, a set of tongs, a silicone scraper, a whisk, and a box grater. A small saucepan, a large saucepan, a stock pot and a colander. One saute pan, and maybe a cast iron skillet. You can do a lot with these.

A rolling pin [can also serve as a meat hammer]. A pyrex baking dish and a loaf pan. A wok. A cookie sheet. A basic set of measuring cups. Am I missing anything?

Rich
November 29, 2008 8:27 PM

Kevin,
Don't forget a good heavy dutch oven. You can do a lot of great stuff in one. Get an enameled one and you don't have to season it.

ms
November 29, 2008 10:36 PM

We have a tradition every year where family members send around the best recipes for the year to everyone else. They all go into a family cookbook. It's the cookbook I use more than any other because I know the recipes are favorites of fine cooks and using one another's recipes keeps us a part of each other's lives. As I try recipes throughout the year I think about which ones I want to include and I try to make sure the old favorites make it into the book as well. Marcella Hazan is absolutely right that home cooked meals are the place where families come together. If there is anything good about the economic downturn, perhaps it is that families will have to stay home and cook together to save the expense of eating out.

Your Name
November 29, 2008 10:43 PM

me - What a great tradition! My family has no terrific cooks so I've spent 30 years learning - trial and error, classes, reading cookbooks. It is not that hard, but as Kevin pointed out, you need good tools. Most kitchen knives are more likely to bruise a tomato than cut into it.

The celebrity chef craze only increases insecurity - as if you have to make ridiculously fancy performance dinners to be a decent cook. It makes cooking, something every culture on earth has figured out how to do with the materials and foodstuffs at hand, into another "expert" skill.

One thing, Martha Stewart's little monthly cooking magazine that is for sale at grocery stores is quite good - both recipes and cooking instruction are accessible.

Connie Connie in Wisconsin
November 30, 2008 8:11 PM

Amazona--I used to work for a kitchen design company. The rule of thumb is that the more people can spend on a kitchen remodel, the less likely they are to actually use their kitchen.

Having just been laid off from said company--do you all here think I could support myself teaching people to cook in their homes?

Lucy
December 1, 2008 9:46 AM

One of the best things I did as a young mom was sign up for a service called Menu Mailer (from savingdinner.com) which sends a weekly email containing six recipes with a shopping list and instructions. I learned so much about cooking. I learned about seasonings (besides salt and pepper!) and now I actually run out of things like cumin. I learned about cooking with a variety of meats as well as vegetarian foods. I've also found recipes that are simple enough that my children can help. They get immense satisfaction from being part of the cooking experience (of course, in cooking with kids, I've learned that they get just as much pleasure out of making a pb&j by themselves as in making some fancy thing that requires cutting and stirring!).

I used to hate cooking because it seemed overwhelming. But now that I kindof know what I'm doing, I really enjoy it. And I have found that I enjoy cooking for other people, too. I have a few things that I make really well and I enjoy sharing those foods with people.

I think that the foodie craze has made us less appreciative of the effort of cooking, as others have said. Cooking well does require time and education. But it also requires an appreciation of taste. Taste buds that have been seared by too much salt and preservatives can't appreciate more subtle flavors. Cutting back on salt was one of the best food choices I've made. I am constantly amazed at how much salt people put on food.

Hippimama
December 1, 2008 4:29 PM

I second the dutch oven -- the single most used pan in my kitchen, for everything from soups, to bread, to braised meats, to roasts....

I love Marcella Hazan -- her Essentials was the fist cookbook we bought after we were married and the lovely recipe for braised chicken has become a staple. Likewise the spinach gnocchi, the methods for risotto and frittata and the marvelous recipes for baked fish. Can barely imagine cooking without it. I especially like the emphasis on a few great quality ingredients, rather than long complicated lists.

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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