Crunchy Con

Once again, Alaska triumphs at the table

Sunday October 18, 2009

Categories: Food

We're still working our way through that amazing halibut and salmon my friends in Eagle River, Alaska, sent home with me in August. Tonight we prepared halibut according to a Basque recipe. It involved cooking down in olive oil white onions, green onions (substituted for leeks), lots of red bell peppers, tomatoes, garlic and spices, then pureeing it with a hand blender. Into the warm puree we placed halibut chunks for a 12-minute bath. We served this with risotto and green salad. The sauce Basquaise was amazingly rich and sweet, and the halibut was terrific; our houseguests even said the fish tasted amazing. So, three cheers for bountiful Alaskan waters and generous Alaskan friends. Halibut is pretty expensive at the market here, so believe me, we know how well y'all are taking care of us.

For dessert, Julie made a second run at this tarte Tatin, this time using a different kind of apple -- Honeycrisps (on sale this week at Central Market) instead of Golden Delicious -- and taking special care with the caramelization. She also used puff pastry. It was a bit time-consuming -- you have to be really careful caramelizing the apples, to keep them from burning while also keeping them from breaking up as they cook down -- but otherwise really uncomplicated. The result was out of this world.

UPDATE: Several of you have asked for the recipe we used for the fish. I'm happy to oblige. I've posted it below the jump.

Here's the recipe for Basque-Style White Fish, adapted from the excellent "French Farm House Cookbook" by Susan Herrmann Loomis. Loomis says it works with filet of cod, halibut, tilapia or any other firm-fleshed white fish.

INGREDIENTS:'

2 lbs. boneless fish fillets
2 tbsp olive oil
4 red bell peppers, cored, seeded and diced
2 leeks -- the white part, and two inches of the green part, washed well and diced (we couldn't find leeks in the market, so we used four entire green onions from our garden, chopped
2 medium onions, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
10 to 12 ounces canned plum tomatoes, chopped or diced
Cayenne pepper

1. Rinse the fish, pat dry, refrigerate until just before cooking.

2. Over medium heat, warm the oil, then add the peppers, leeks, onion and garlic. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until onions soften, about 20 minutes. Keep an eye on it, and stir often, to prevent sticking. Stir in the tomatoes, cover, and cook until the vegetables are almost all dissolved, about 30 minutes. Don't forget to stir it occasionally to prevent sticking.

3. When the vegetables are done, remove from skillet, puree in a blender or food processor, then return to skillet. (We have a hand blender, which allowed up to puree the stuff in the skillet.) Taste it again for salt and pepper, adding if necessary. At this point, add the cayenne to taste. Loomis says it should have a bite to it, but not be too hot.

4. LIghtly salt the fish, then add it to the sauce on the stove. make sure to push the pieces down until they are at least half covered. Cover and cook just until the fish is cooked through, about 15 minutes (thinner filets will cook more quickly).

5. Taste the sauce once more for seasoning, then serve. We had it with hot French bread to sop up the delicious sauce, but fresh white rice would go well too.

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Comments
Gerard Nadal
October 18, 2009 2:37 PM

AML,

"Only buy wild salmon, ever."

??????????? Taste?

AAJD
October 18, 2009 4:42 PM

Not fish exactly...but thanks to your inspired ravings a while back, I'm making cassoulet today for the first time. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

Rod Dreher
October 18, 2009 8:16 PM

Just posted the fish basquaise recipe after the jump in the original posting.

AML
October 18, 2009 8:57 PM

RobL : Golden Delicious are not related to Red ones, it was a marketing ploy, and yes, the Golden ones are great for cooking.

Don't know where you get your information, but here in Washington State, we know our apples, and we know better. Get a harder crisper apple for cooking.

Gerard Nadal: "Only buy wild salmon, ever."
??????????? Taste?

No, wild do taste better, but that's not the whole reason. 90 percent of the salmon sold in the United States is farmed. Unfortunately, farmed salmon has been found to contain residues of PCBs and other toxic contaminants, as well as residues of antibiotics and other drugs. I'd rather avoid those, even if wild costs more. Frozen is fine.

treebeard
October 19, 2009 11:27 AM

I've been eating canned wild Alaska salmon recently, and been surprised at how much I liked it. It's one of the recommendations in a book by Dr. Weil (the alternative medicine guy).
My question: Is there a good recipe out there for canned, precooked salmon?

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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