Crunchy Con

Jacques Puisais, my hero

Friday November 20, 2009

Categories: Food

Only in France, cher, only in France: meet Jacques Puisais, a philosopher of taste:


"He who eats a radish, for instance, will he be in a good mood?" he continued, stoking his fireplace. "Will he eat it correctly, with a little butter from Charente to counteract the sting? I can't know that. But once we've eaten the radish, we can talk about it. And when we do, we can know one another. And once we know one another, we can appreciate one another, even love one another."

Puisais, the son of a wine merchant and a chemist who earned a doctorate in science, for three decades ran the local government laboratory that analyzes water, food and soil to guarantee against health hazards and support vineyards in the Loire region. But early on, he said, he began to understand that, although he could measure nutritional value and hygiene, chemistry was only one factor in the many things that made up taste. So he started his own lab within the lab, where he experimented with the ingredients of taste and began his long campaign to awaken French people -- particularly children -- to the importance of how things taste.

Rather than having pupils look in the dictionary to see what "fibrous" means, he sought to have them bite down on a boiled leek to experience the texture and taste for themselves. A book, "Taste In Children," led to the writing of a curriculum for classes in the local school system designed to awaken sensorial awareness among the young.

Seriously, I think that's a great idea. And seriously x 2, I adore a country and a culture that can produce a M. Puisais. Please, somebody, translate his books into English, or I'll have to go to the Alliance Francaise and reclaim my French.

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Comments
Boze
November 21, 2009 2:34 PM

Rod, it occurs to me that you would enjoy the movie "Ratatouille." I appreciate your taste in fine foods.

KateA
November 21, 2009 6:23 PM

Maybe it was eating green olives as a toddler and raw oysters and jalapenso as a child that cultivated my love of food......

Franklin Evans
November 22, 2009 11:26 AM

One of my favorite moments of human insight -- and I don't hesitate to quote fiction, since humans create it and base it on their own experiences -- is during the movie "French Kiss". Kate makes Luc show her his childhood room, and growing up in a winemaking family he had a school project there: a box of samples of the local environment, all of which can be found to some extent in the local wines.

Luc makes Kate take a sip of the family wine and describe it. She does so in abstract terms (as wine tasters are wont to do). Then he has her sniff several of the samples, followed by another sip. She immediately begins to identify some of the scents.

Anyway, a long-winded agreement with Rod there. ;-)

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About Crunchy Con

Rod Dreher is an editorial columnist for the Dallas Morning News, and author of "Crunchy Cons" (Crown Forum), a nonfiction book about conservatives, most of them religious, whose faith and political convictions sometimes put them at odds with mainstream conservatives. The views expressed in this blog are his own.

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