A Baton Rouge friend e-mails today his thoughts about education and budgetary reform in Louisiana, and how our home state seems doomed to go through the same battles over and over again ... and make no progress. Depressing stuff, and all true. But what if there's a bright side to Louisiana's chronic inability to get its act together? Writing in the New York Times today, Dan Baum has a reflection on why New Orleans is a pretty decent place to ride out the recession. He talks about being in NOLA after Katrina, and reporting to a friend he met on the street that all the city's property records were destroyed by the flood. He expected the man to be devastated. In fact, the man was thrilled, because that meant property wouldn't change hands, and life could rebuilt as it was. Baum:
While the rest of us Americans scurry about with a Blackberry in one hand and a to-go cup of coffee in the other in a feverish attempt to pack more achievement into every minute, it's the New Orleans way to build one's days around friends, family, music, cooking, processions, and art. For more than two centuries New Orleanians have been guardians of tradition and masters of living in the moment -- a lost art. Their preference for having more time than money was at the heart of what made that city so much fun to visit and so hard to leave.
So when outsiders talked of making New Orleans "bigger and better," the people of the city recoiled. "Bigger and better" struck many New Orleanian ears as code for whiter. But even more, I suspect, they heard it as a recipe for a city driven -- like the rest of America -- by the dollar and the clock. Who needs that?
Joe Braun celebrating the destruction of the real estate records was a harbinger. Although the records were freeze-dried and restored, the terrible "it" Braun had feared never happened. New Orleanians rejected all the plans for a "bigger and better" city, either by hounding the planners out of town or refusing entreaties to sell their ruined houses to developers. They're putting New Orleans back together the way they like it, which is pretty much the way it was before Katrina. All the old neighborhoods are intact - even the Lower Ninth Ward, which was pronounced dead many times over. Life still revolves around second lines, the meticulous year-long building of Mardi Gras Indian suits, the boiling of crawfish and the lowing of saxophones.
Another good thing about living in New Orleans these days, according to some; it's a great refuge from the recession. The gyrations of the Dow, the collapse of General Motors, the prospect of regulating credit default swaps - even the collapse of the housing markets - mean little to most New Orleanians. The city operates at such a low level of economic activity that it never really prospers in good times or suffers in bad.
Ronald Lewis is a retired streetcar-track repairman in the Lower Ninth Ward - pretty well off, by New Orleans standards, with a $1,100-a-month pension. His disappointment in me was audible when I called recently to ask if the recession was hurting him or his neighbors. "Now Dan," he sighed. "You know we ain't never had nothing down here, so how could we be losing?" Then he went on to describe the barbecue he was holding at house that evening and wondered if I couldn't come by.
It's easy to romanticize this. I think about a journalist friend of mine in NOLA who is thinking at long last about moving out of his home city, because he's just about given up on it. The well-known quip from the journalist who moved out of the city some years back because (he said) he couldn't see raising his family in a city that valued parades more than libraries, comes to mind.
On the other hand, every time I go home to south Louisiana to see my mom and dad, I am reminded of (and comforted by) the brilliant art of just hanging out that south Louisiana folks have perfected (I always say "south" Louisiana, because it's different from north Louisiana, which strikes me as Far East Texas in many ways). The whole question of Quality of Life is paramount. What makes for high quality of life? Do Louisianians, mired in corruption and inefficiency and relative poverty, actually have a higher quality of life overall than, say, Minnesotans? Would you rather live in Oslo or Marseilles? Serious question. I don't know the answer. But I think about it all the time.
If Louisiana finally got its act together and became just like everybody else, would it still be Louisiana?