This is the Castle of Chiaramonte overlooking the town of Mussomelli.
We headed up there around 9:45 and arrived around 11:00, even though it was maybe 30 miles from where we are as the crow flies. But of course the crow does not have to fly on winding roads that back around into each other. I had wanted to hit another interesting site, Sutera, after this, but honestly, I was so tired of the corkscrew driving, I decided we'd come home and go swimming.
But on the way, more shrines:
The interior held a mosaic:
(speaking of mosaics, I have yet to blog on our visit to the Villa Romana del Casale...soon)
This was interesting:
On the way up we saw this ...which is a typical historic farmer's hut from the area:
And this interesting arrangement, which appeared to still be inhabited:
As seems to be the case in most places we've toured, we were essentially alone. Paid our 6E (total) to get in, and started climbing the steps up to the first level of dwelling.
I thought the stable was interesting because it was, of course, quite large.
A few rooms, just to give you a sense of the restoration.
Michael must have said the word "dungeon" 6 dozen times in the hour we were there. He really covets the job of throwing people into the dungeon. And he doesn't mean lead or send, he means throwing. He'll fight you for that job.
But where was the dungeon? There were a couple of glass doors leading down, but they were locked. At some point, one of the women who took our tickets appeared, sitting on a window sill, talking on the cell phone. She wordlessly pointed to one of the locked doors, opened it, and led us down and through the lower levels - very clean, recently restored, no indication of what they were. We had to presume they were...the dungeon. She walked at a brisk pace ahead of us, saying nothing, not looking at us, not pausing - we didn't know if we were supposed to stay and wander and she would be at the other door waiting, or if we were just supposed to follow her as she strode through the...dungeon. We chose the latter course and told her grazie as she locked the door behind us again at the first level. It was odd. But we saw the castle, by heaven.
It was good because it was, indeed, such a serious castle and gave a sense of what castles were for - fortification and expressions of power - and a bit - just a bit - of the hardship involved.
Then it was into the town where we stopped at a "Penny Market," which, upon entrance, struck me as an Aldi store - perhaps it is the Italian version. We bought what I hoped was lotion - and asked the clerk to make sure - because everyone is complaining about dry skin (among other things), as well as a bit more toothpaste, some snacks (speaking of fortification) and a box of tissues. Before we left, clerk motioned us to wait. She went to the next register, pulled out a plastic bag and handed each of the children what I would call a red nametag ribbon - you know, that you put around your neck and hook a tag or ticket holder onto? Well, grazie again - although as she was pulling them out, I really thought this was some object one needed to exit the store or parking lot. But no. It was the Happy Meal prize of the Penny Market. Yay.
We then drove into town at a little after noon, which means that once again, I hit a town just as the churches are all closing, in this case one being a rather famous shrine. Oh well. The boys played in a park in town for a bit, watched over by Pope John Paul II
(I don't think he had visited - the placard seemed to say that he had sent his blessings via someone else), we went to a bakery across the way,
bought goodies.
Fig-filled. Very good.
And then headed back down, to the pool, and to a great dinner at a local trattoria. I don't think I got what I ordered - because I swear the pasta I ordered had broccoli in it - but it was fantastic anyway. And the pizza was the best we've had so far. Il Cacciatore, off 640 south of Caltinessetta.
Now I wiped out. Two days behind in my journaling, but just too tired to get to it tonight. Maybe I'll be up earlier in the morning and be able to do it then. Some of it, at least.
Other shots from the day:
Flowers:
A very strange sculpture on the outskirts of Mussemelli
Another shrine on the way back
But where was the dungeon? There were a couple of glass doors leading down, but they were locked. At some point, one of the women who took our tickets appeared, sitting on a window sill, talking on the cell phone. She wordlessly pointed to one of the locked doors, opened it, and led us down and through the lower levels - very clean, recently restored, no indication of what they were. We had to presume they were...the dungeon. She walked at a brisk pace ahead of us, saying nothing, not looking at us, not pausing - we didn't know if we were supposed to stay and wander and she would be at the other door waiting, or if we were just supposed to follow her as she strode through the...dungeon. We chose the latter course and told her grazie as she locked the door behind us again at the first level. It was odd. But we saw the castle, by heaven.
It was good because it was, indeed, such a serious castle and gave a sense of what castles were for - fortification and expressions of power - and a bit - just a bit - of the hardship involved.
Then it was into the town where we stopped at a "Penny Market," which, upon entrance, struck me as an Aldi store - perhaps it is the Italian version. We bought what I hoped was lotion - and asked the clerk to make sure - because everyone is complaining about dry skin (among other things), as well as a bit more toothpaste, some snacks (speaking of fortification) and a box of tissues. Before we left, clerk motioned us to wait. She went to the next register, pulled out a plastic bag and handed each of the children what I would call a red nametag ribbon - you know, that you put around your neck and hook a tag or ticket holder onto? Well, grazie again - although as she was pulling them out, I really thought this was some object one needed to exit the store or parking lot. But no. It was the Happy Meal prize of the Penny Market. Yay.
We then drove into town at a little after noon, which means that once again, I hit a town just as the churches are all closing, in this case one being a rather famous shrine. Oh well. The boys played in a park in town for a bit, watched over by Pope John Paul II
(I don't think he had visited - the placard seemed to say that he had sent his blessings via someone else), we went to a bakery across the way,
bought goodies.
Fig-filled. Very good.
And then headed back down, to the pool, and to a great dinner at a local trattoria. I don't think I got what I ordered - because I swear the pasta I ordered had broccoli in it - but it was fantastic anyway. And the pizza was the best we've had so far. Il Cacciatore, off 640 south of Caltinessetta.
Now I wiped out. Two days behind in my journaling, but just too tired to get to it tonight. Maybe I'll be up earlier in the morning and be able to do it then. Some of it, at least.
Other shots from the day:
Flowers:
A very strange sculpture on the outskirts of Mussemelli
Another shrine on the way back
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Thank you so much for this travelogue....am enjoying it so much. Enjoy all of your trip and thanks for sharing.
Oh, I do more extensive journaling in a journal - takes me about 2 hours to finish writing up one day..and thanks!
Actually, it rained today for a bit at Mount Etna!
I have been following and loving your blog. Got here some time ago via the two hops from Rod Dreher's blog. (You really should get him to update that link.)
I have tried to get to Sicily for several years and may just manage it this fall or at least next spring. Since I am from a cool dry climate ( Seattle), I think it will definitely have to be spring or fall because I think it must be very hot and humid there in the summer. I very much appreciate your great pictures and enjoy seeing your travels through your eyes and those of your children.
Oh, the food!
Thanks for allowing us to share your trip - visited Taromina a few years ago you're bringing back fond memories. Thanks for sharing your adorable children - love this blog
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